By shahla.motadel@gmail.com on 12/15/2009 9:43 PM

WHAT I PACK

1)  Do you travel light or heavy?

I try to pack light. After paying 500 Euros (NZ$1000) for excess luggage on a trip back home from Italy I’ve definitely learned my lesson.

2) Cattle or first class?

Cattle. I prefer to spend my money on the ground.

3)  I can’t travel without. . .

My Visa card—awoman’s best friend.

4)  What type of suitcase do you carry?

My suitcase is a sturdy four-wheeler, but lightweight, that I have dragged all around, on train journeys, cobbled streets, bus rides, you name it.

5)  Are you a planner or last-minute packer?

Last-minute packer, but I’ve got a lot of post-its.

6)  What’s the best thing you’ve brought back from a trip?

A beautiful gold necklace from Ponte Vecchio in Florence—the most amazing place to shop for jewellery.

7)  Favourite or most exciting airport to land in?

Rome—you get the warmest welcome from those passport control guys.

8) Most memorable trip?

The bus trip from Sorrento to Positano, on the Amalfi coast. The scenery is breathtaking, but even more enthralling is watching the bus driver wind through the impossibly narrow cliff-top roads.

9) What do you do while on the plane?

I always carry the relevant phrasebook for the country I’m going to and, between movies and sleep, try to absorb as much as I can—time well spent.

By shahla.motadel@gmail.com on 12/15/2009 9:33 PM

Looking for an unforgettable holiday? Come to Italy!

For me Italy is the number 1 holiday destination! I said that when I was 21 after visiting seventeen European countries and I say it now many years later and after seeing a lot more of the world. Why? Here it's in brief.

Italy is really a 'bel paese' (beautiful country), with its breathtaking coastline, like the Amalfi coast and the Cinque Terre, and a picture-perfect panoramic inner landscape, covered with olive trees, vineyards, figs, orange and lemon trees. Its lakes and mountains, jeweled with seaside and cliff-hanging towns, make Italy a real paradiso!

Italy is rich with history and astonishing works of art, all laid out in front of you as you stroll down the streets of Rome, Florence, and Siena, just to mention a few. The well-known galleries like Uffizzi in Florence and Borghese in Rome will give a world of arts, but you can also see hidden treasures in big or small churches throughout Italy. There are also places underground, like the catacombe, which are mind boggling.

Need I mention food and wine? From pasta & pizza to olives, cheese and wines Italy is world famous for it all! And don't miss the Italian heavenly gelatos and pastries (almond ones in particular).

Passeggiata around piazzas, soaking the ambiance and watching the artists, tourists and locals mingle together is the greatest free entertainment in Italy. Almost every night I go for a walk around my favourite piazzas, when in Rome. They are all close to each other, from Piazza Navona (showcasing Bernini's masterpieces), to Piazza Rotondo with the gracious Pantheon, to Piazza di Spagna with its colourful atmosphere, to Fontana di Trivi, where Federico Fellini used as a romantic scene for his famous classic movie, La Dolce Vita. This is also where an estimated 3000Euros worth of coins are thrown into the water every day by visitors wishing to return to Rome.

Then there's Opera. You can see it in a magnificent place like Arena in Verona under the blue sky, or in a beautiful little church in Rome (Chiesa di San Paolo Entro Le Mura) where I saw La Traviata recently with my tour guest, sitting in the front row. The ambiance was so real and intimate that we felt to be part of it!

Finally, you can't come to Italy and not go shopping (from designer shops to their outlet stores to mercatos of all kind). You might also have a particular interest in say Italian cooking, or mask making, or ceramics, etc - there are courses available whatever your interests might be.

As you see, Italy is as much about intriguing the mind as it's about delighting the heart. If you want to have a taste of it all, in an Italian style - that is relaxed, fun and vivace - then have a look at my website, book one of my tours, and let me be your personal guide for a great Italian experience ...sorry signori, it's only for women!

By Diana on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Arriving by train from Sorrento, we make our way through the mercato of fish, vegetables, patissericherias, cheeses and meat. The scene is basic, rustic, raunchy, and earthy. The life force flows amongst the people as they go about their daily lives. The change of scene from the serene and spiritual Anacapri is profound. A game plan is needed to visit Napoli as there are so many options: the central sites, the waterfront,  the markets, shopping, major buildings or go underground and seeing the catacombs. You can take the bus tour in an open topped bus to get oriented. We decide to find Antiqua Pizzeria Da Michele for an early pizza lunch, then walk to the Theatre, palazzo and church in the largest piazza in Napoli. Napoli is not for the faint hearted. You are forced to encounter Napoli. There is an immediate impression on all of my senses as we leave the train station; cars, scooters, rickety cobble stones, water, road works, markets, bag sellers, shops, cars and buses everywhere.

Walking down Via Umberto into an unprepossessing cafe entrance, we join a hive of activity of Antiqua Pizzeria S.Michele. There are only two pizzas on the menu, marguerite with tomato, mozzarella and basil or Marinella with tomato, garlic and oregano. You can choose normal, or large. The drinks are water and coke. The tables are marble and every table is full. There is a queue out the door and people have numbers. The air is full of anticipation as people wait to be called. Those waiting know they are at a revered shrine. This place has been here for over 70 years. The owner and decendent from the originator of the pizza napoletan leans wearily against a tiled wall, looking on with pride and some amazement at the business of this place he has created. His face lights up as we say hello.

This pizza will set us up for the rest of the day. The crust is toasted, and light and has oil dripping from it. Delicious. Cost 4E each.

We walk down to the theatre, the church and the huge piazza around the Palace. There are few people around, so we have these places to ourselves. The outside surfaces wear the grime of years, but inside these buildings are glorious. Beatiful structures which have lasted the years. Several people had warned us about Napoli, to watch ourselves and our bags, that people might grab our bags or push us around. This was not the case at all. We found everyone we approached to ask for directions, kind and helpful.

By Diana on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Capri is a day trip from Sorrento. While Sorrento is divine, Capri is magical: the island the sirens lured captivated sailors to. It is easy to be captivated. Olives and orange groves cling to hill sides. Every centimetre of flat land is planted. The water is torquoise, the sky blue, the houses white. Tiny cobbled lanes to wander down. The boat trip from Sorrento takes us to the island and we then take the funicular up further for completely stunning views.

We have our morning coffee in the piazza knowing this will cost us 18E. It is worth every cent. Thats me and Shahla left here with our very expensive breakfast.

We linger over our morning cornetto, caffee latte and a glass of water and watch people. The tone is casual  and steeped in knowing the priviledge of being in such a place.

I appreciate the creativity, artistry and hard work of those who built this extraordinary town. The day is hot and we wander through the lanes, past designer shops and see valentino, prada, armani and every italian designer known. I spot an exquisite dress and ask the price. 16,000E. Yes, it true. I decided it wasn't quite my colour. I avoid the sirens call! The cafes are enticing and inviting and set with wisteria and palms draping.

The judas trees shower they pink and mauve blossoms, cafes sit with their best table clothes invitingly calling diners. Then there is the bus which takes us further up the mountain to Anacapri. This bus winds up the mountain, sheer cliffs drop on one side. This experience is both magical and terrifying, the scenary is stunning, and the only comfort on this precarious road is knowing the driver has done this trip many times,  and he probably wants to have his lunch too. We arrive safely to the serenity of Anacapri and the wonderful sanctury ceated by Axel Munther. Anne Erwin had told me about this and this home is truly a work of art and nature, and hard work over many years. We wander Anacapri, taste lemonchello and I buy a colourful ceramic jug. Anacapri is an unusual mix of being touristy then completely quiet. We have some places to ourselves. We take the bus down the precariously winding road back to Capri then down the funicular to the wharf area. I have a glass of wine and Shahla tea and we chat to our waiter, a young man wanting to go to America to try his fortunes there. I am amazed at anyone wanting to leave this magical place, however for him, there are not enough young people here and not enough to do other than work. The ferry takes us back to Sorrento. We walk in the early evening, then head out to have dinner in the garden restaurant we have discovered.

By Diana on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

We take the bus to Positano, Ravello and Amalfi. the trip is breaktaking and beautiful as we pass through towns first looking back to Sorrento and Capri, and then the Amalfi coast. Again olive trees, and orange and lemon groves are everywhere. Houses clinging to hillsides, with roof gardens exqusitely planted and refreshed with spring flowers. There is of course a premium on flat space so hills are terraced and carefully planted. The morning colours of far away hills are soft mauves and purples. The beauty of this coast is breathtaking and the bus trip astonishing with the navigation skills of bus drivers. Everyone takes care on this road and we arrive safely. Within minutes of arriving in Positano, I spot an antique shop and am now travelling with 6 beautiful champagne glasses, made in Venice in 1940's handpainted in gold.

 And, an arabic coffee pot from 1910 which had found its way into this shop owned by Il Capitano, an old salt who had worked in the oil industry and travelled to the Arab countries, India and Australia in his time. I am carrying these in my handluggage, an extra handbag (yes a handbag of glory!) I just had to buy in Napoli. I am hoping I get these things back safely to New Zealand. We have lunch in a seaside cafe and choose fried fishes and salad which is beautiful. Shahla has a great eye for non touristy cafes which means the food we are eating is fantastic and not so expensive.

We take another bus for Ravello which is up further. We walk to Saint Frances of Assissi's resting place from 14 C. On the way there are stunning views of old farm houses set against the sky line, beauiful patios with the sea far below. We take a late afternoon coffee in the piazza in Ravello and are stung for our coffee here.  I am philosphical about this as its hard not to be caught and take advantage of the seating outside of the cafes. there  are no prices for the coffee, nor any indication of the service charges until you receive the bill (il conti), by then of course it is too late. The sour taste left in your mouth doesnt last long knowing you are in one of the most beatiful places in the world and to linger over coffee is a great thing to do on holiday. The cornetto I had was pastry filled with ricotta and caramelised orange peel. Probably the best I hade ever tasted. The scene above is the Ravello piazza and the costly coffee location.

Back to Amalfi by another bus and we wander into the piazza there. There is a large staircase leading to a beatiful church painted with golds. Somehow the italians have managed to retain the former glory of these magnificant churches.

We begin our bus trip back to Sorrento around 6pm and the setting sun reflects and beginnings of the night lights flickering along the coast reflect a deeply satisfying day. There is a warm buzz in many different languages on the bus. Over the trip home a number of young people get onto the bus, ready for their saturday night out. Each one greets the driver, buona sera, and the driver greets each person. I notice both a deep valuing of each individual identity here, and a respectful greeting beginning each connections. The driver easily engages with who ever is standing closest. These buses are full yet not crowded and I feel lucky to be part of all of this generous spirit.

By Diana on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Eating places in Rome

Last night we walked into a simple restaurant around 8pm, Bella Napoli, Via Simone de Saint Bon. www.ristorantebellanapoli.it It was empty. There were tables of lush platters of baby artichokes cooked four different ways, mushrooms, courgettes, eggplants, and fat olives. More platters of baked salmon, marinated tiny squid, fried octopus, asparagus in bunches tied with string, green beans, spinachi, roasted eggplant, peppers, courgettes and tomatoes. Heaven. We helped our selves. Suddenly the restaurant was full, people talking and laughing and eating. I chose ravioli con noci (walnuts) and Shahla and Maria both had spaghetti con vongole (baby clams) which were sweet and delicious. My ravioli were large rectangles filled with ricotta and spinachi and with a sauce of cream and walnut paste, delicious. And yes we shared deserts too: struddle with apples and pears and pinenuts, tiramisu as it should be, and an apple custard pie. Mmmmmm. With wine, all this came to 29 euros each. Maria said the same three brothers have been running this restaurant for thirty years. This is the authentic food in Roma I have been looking for and not previously found

Handy hints. I have identified at least 10 types of eateries in Italy:

Pizzaria: sells pizza by the slice or whole, to eat in or take out

Forno Bakery with pizzas and breads freshly baked on site, here you buy pizza by the slice or by the weight of the slice

Café e bar: Breakfast places to have a cup of coffee, or a glass of wine with light snacks, sandwiches and usually a fantastic array of pastries called cornetto. Here you stand at the bar to drink your coffee and eat your cornetto for breakfast. This usually costs around 3E. You can pay more if you sit down either inside or outside and exactly the same order of coffee and cornetto can cost you up to 18E!! Don’t be surprised if a bar doesn’t have wine!

Locale: a bar to go for a drink in the evening, also has appetisers

Tavola Calda: Hot meals on the go Italy’s fast food equivalent. The price is often per portion so this can also be an expensive way to eat if you choose several things.

Rosticcheri: hot and cold roasted meats, and vegetables, great for take away or eating at the bar

Osteria: these originated as bars where people had a drink and played cards in the evenings. Over time, a choice of one or two pastas was offered. Nowadays these tend to have local foods, and a small range of specialities on the menu.

Enoteca: More or less the same as above, with a good selection of wines

Trattoria: A step up from Osteria with a large selection of dishes. Licenced.

Restaurante: A more formal choice of dining with higher prices

Then of course there are at least five types of speciality food shops

Salumeria: delis which sell everything: salamis, cheeses, pestos, oils, olives. Here is you buy a container of mixed h'ors d'oevres, you will be charged by weight.

Creperie:freshly made crepes with various fillings

Gelateria with ice creams of fabulous flavours, an essential for every hot day

Pasticcheria with fresh baked pastries and cakes to die for. Eating these require you to walk a lot afterwards

By Diana on Sunday, April 19, 2009

www.youtube.com/watch

By Diana on Thursday, April 16, 2009

Deciding to explore one of the older parts of Rome today, we took a tram to Piazza Argentina for our caffe and cornetto. In this particular bar, the milk is served in the glass with a small jug of delicious coffee alongside for you to mix together. Julius Cesare was killed in the centre of Piazza Argentina which is now home to hundreds of cats who live amongst the ruins.

We then continued on tram to Travestere and our next stop is the church of Sante Maria in Travestere, said to be the oldest church in Rome. Facing a large piazza, this Church is beautiful. Prepared for easter, there are olive trees alongside the alter creating a simple evocative scene. The ceiling is covered with frescoes, statues, cherubs and angels. The floors are mosaics. Everywhere there is gold leaf, delicate paintings and places for reflection. The skills of artisans and artists endure and create a serene, uplifting scene for meditation and prayer. We sit here for a long time. I write a prayer for the people of Abruzzo who have experienced a terrible earthquake a couple of days ago. I leave this at the feet of a statue of a young priest looking gently into the eyes of a cherub he is holding in his arms. There are thousands of notes at his feet, in his arms and on his head.

Further down the road in Trastevere, we visit Villa Farnese, built around 1511. The extraordinary vision and skills of the early architects, artisans and painters are again evident. In one loggia, there are scenes by Raphael painted on the walls and ceilings; scenes of Cupid and Psyche, intertwined with garlands of flowers and fruit by da Udine. There are marble stair cases and paintings showing perspective bringing the outskirts of Rome inside this old family home.

By Diana on Thursday, April 16, 2009

We are up early and take the metro to the Stazione Centrale. This is 5 minutes from our stop in Lepanto, to the central station. There is a choice of breakfast places and we choose Acafe which has fabulous looking pastries and for 3E.80 we have caffe latte, freshly squeezed orange juice and a fantastic crispy apple pastry. This is the best so far.

Our train is easy to find and on time. Two hours later we are laughing with Maria in Grosseto. We pile into the car and she takes us to Castello della Pescaia, an old village on top of a hill, overlooking the sea. The lanes wind down to the town below, the houses are beautifully restored with exquisite gardens. Vignettes everywhere, an archway here, a tiny lane there. This town is mostly holiday homes for the wealthy from Milano and Roma. The sea reputedly has the cleanest water in all of Italy. We shop in a Salumeri and then have coffee in a tiny café with benches and tables outside. As we drive to Maria’s, I see olive trees everywhere, and they are being pruned. I am thrilled. This is what I have wanted to see. We arrive at Maria’s cottage and it is gorgeous, compact and set in an olive grove and large garden. She has figs, apricots, pears, and cherries. Her hedge is made of bay trees. aria has both young and older trees. Downstairs is the kitchen and lounge and bathroom and upstairs the bedroom Shahla and I will share. The furniture is marble topped, the windows are deep and have shutters for the cool Tuscan winters.

We wander over the road, and there is a grove with around 200 one hundred year old trees. The trunks are huge and have five classical main branches coming from 1.5 metres us the trunk. There is nothing in the centre of these trees, it is completely clear. The tops have been cut off and I later learn this is for hand picking. The remainder of the tree hangs downwards, giving a sweeping look. These look both majestic and practical. The neighbour Tomaso talks with us and shows us his trees. He has just taken over an abandoned grove and has begun to prune and to plant.

The next day we get up early and decide to work before breakfast. We plant strawberries, tomatoes, lettuces, cucumbers, and zucchini. These sit alongside spinach, asparagus, baby globe artichokes, onions and garlic. In pots around the house are basil, parsley, and sage. Then Franco arrives to cut the grass and prune the olives.

I watch with hawk eyes. Every upright shoot is cut off. Franco says this will sap the energy from the tree if they are not taken. Only shoots which lean over or down are left. Everything going towards the centre of the tree is taken off. And then the tops are cut, so the tree can be picked with electronic fingers. He relates that they have tried shaking but some trees died, while others were OK, so they have gone back to their older methods. Maria will hand pick hers and has invited me back for November!

I ask Franco through Shahla what does he put into the soil, and its compost and potassium. Both he and Maria are confident in the Tuscan soil, and know how much water will fall, and what the temperatures will be like. Franco says they plant the young trees in late autumn (October) as the roots grow but not the tree, and then when spring comes, the tree takes off and all the energy can go into the growth of the tree. Franco is 70 and has been pruning and growing olives for 50 years. I listen to everything he says, and watch his every move. 

Maria is a wonderful and generous host. She drives us to Etruscan sites from 600 A.D. We drive to the local villages of Buriano and Monte Pescali. The scenery is stunning, and the agricultural success of the area is evident. Everywhere people are pruning, mowing, tilling the soil and planting. The soil is rusty brown, the olives silver and green, the crops range in colours from verdant green to bright yellow. The region is a hive of activity. The towns consist of slim lanes and beautifully restored buildings from the 11 century onwards. Maria makes lunch of gnocchi with sage fried briefly in butter adn topped with parmesan> She teaches us the art of making a batter and frying baby artichokes, which taste divine. For breakfast we sit outside in the spring sun under the wisteria and eat her freshly made fig and cherry jams, with large slices of Colomba, a special easter almond cake shaped like a dove, served with coffee. And in between apples, cheese and pears. Right: Shahla and Maria at breakfast.

By Diana on Monday, April 13, 2009

Our apartment is gorgeous, compact and central. Arriving yesterday, I saw Shahla immediately as I came out of customs. I am delighted, relieved and amazed we have found each other in the sea of people.  We took the packed train into Stazione Termini, (11 euros and 30 minutes) sharing a cabin with a group of animated young men who ran a plastics factory in Tunisia. They were from Napoli. The one sitting beside me was friendly and curious and wanted to practice his English. He asked where we were from, what season was it in New Zealand, and where were we going in Italy. I asked they were from, what work did they do, what were they doing in Rome and how long would they be there. Arriving in central Rome was easy.

People from all over the world arriving and leaving made for a vibrant scene. The Bancomat easily gave me euros from my new travel card! I headed over the road to the local tobacchi to buy some cheese and apples as the plane food had been distinctly unappetising. We took a bus to our apartment. Shahla pointed out; Piazza Venezia, via Nazionale, Largo Argentina, Palazzo di Giustizia. Crossing the Tiber River, we went through Piazza Cavour, to our Palazzo (mansion) just off via Giulio Cesare.

As I have been to Rome several times and had already seen many of the main sites,  Shahla asked me what I wanted to do on this tour. Preferring to have new experience of the city and escape the tourist crowds, we have decided to Campo di Fioriwalk and make plans as we go. By chance, Maria, a friend of Shahla’s picked us up and took us to another apartment she is letting to a Sardinian family for four days. This was in a charming area near the forum. We had a chance to look at the apartment. It was simple and elegant, with deli and cafes nearby as in all of Rome. Maria runs www.romehome.it  so if you want an apartment in Rome, she has great apartments all over the city. Maria generously drove us to many special places unavailable to tourists. She drives the streets of Rome with great skills and panache. Having grown up close to the Spanish steps and lived in Rome most of her life, she knows every bit of the city by heart, and the history behind it. We are really lucky to have her share these gems with us.It is Easter Friday today and surprisingly the city is fully open. We have decided to begin our days with the classic Italian breakfast, standing in a bar having caffe latte and cornetto (selecting from the fabulous array of almond croissant, pain au chocolate, Danish and Italian pastries) around 2 euros for each. We then walk…….. all day.

Today, first to St Peters Square, then Campo de’ Fiori with its vibrant daily market, toPiazza Navona with the glorious statues and the Pantheon. Everywhere I looked there are vignettes which make this city so romantic: a roof garden here, majestic cupolas there, doorways creating intrigues and exquisite carved marble statues and sculptures in unexpected places. In amongst all of this are cafes and bars. There are many places for people sit and to take in this extraordinary city. Layered over these scenes is the history of Rome; the place where Julius Ceasar was murdererd, the tomb of Raffaello,  Dante’s studio, the Borghese and Farneses family homes. Underpinning this is the reach of the Roman Empire and the beginnings of Christianity and the many places of prayer; the escape tunnels from the Vatican, the catacombs, and now the hundreds of churches, and the alter of peace, all welcoming. Lunch was strawberries with a slice of fine crust zucchini pizza sitting at the fountain in Campo de’ Fiori. Maria joined us for gelatti around 4pm. My choice was caramelised chestnut (marron glace) refreshing and delicious. Shahla’s favourite is amaretti. At right, Shahla and Maria.

Its Spring in Rome

The blossoms of the Judas street shower lace coverings of purple and lime green and line the streets. The city is surprisingly quiet given the many tourists here for easter. Most of them were at the Pantheon today, so we are able to roam freely.

Artists, Architects, Artisans and City Planners and caffe latte

We visited the city cemetery. Walking around the porticos, I see the foresight and value of the artists, artisans, architects and city planners. Their contributions are reflected throughout the city and particularly here. There are beautiful carved marble statues and monuments for the fine families of Rome. The cemetery is huge, and its ambiance is serene, respectful, beautiful and sad.  Here, if a grotto has not tended for 50 years, the remains are removed and stored in another area, making the rare space available again. This place is a profound mix of art, sorrow, hidden stories and history. The expression of the value of life and the sorrow of loss is physical and large. One statue is of a woman in her quilted satin gown flowing around her as she is hugging and kissing her child who is reaching up to her. The carved marble reflects the soft folds of her gown and the painful parting taking place. We read her husband is the sculptor. This is in stark contrast of culture and beliefs of the cemeteries I saw in the Abu Dhabi desert – sharp jagged rocks 30cms high, inserted vertically into the ground, and no names.

By Diana on Monday, March 16, 2009

I have my tickets! Christine from Harbour City Travel has been great with all the flight arrangements. There are three weeks to go before Shahla and I meet in Rome on 9th April. We will be joining thousands of visitors, many of them pilgrims there for ancient spiritual and religious rituals of Easter.

Shahla has found us an apartment in central Rome. Our tour includes Rome for a week then down to the Amalfi coast and Sorrento, Portofino Capri and Napoli, then up to Sienna then over to Padua, Verona and Lake Guarda. My nephew Lance is joining us for 3 – 4 days there. Then we go back to Rome and I will fly home, and Shahla will stay on.

 

In preparation I am learning some Italian from a set of CD’s by Michel Thomas. He teaches by emphasising thinking rather than memorising or writing anything down.

To cover all bases, I have an Italian phrasebook. Certain phrases have grabbed my attention. My favourite sayings are:

Sono stanca – I am tired

Questo e' rotto – this is broken

il bagno  e' sporco – the bath is dirty……. I am beginning to wonder if other preparations are needed! I am trying out conversations with the barrista from Caffe Italiano on Brandon Street. ‘Bon giorno’ I say, ‘comme stai?’ and he responds. I do understand what he is saying but so far, my only response is to look completely stunned as I desperately scramble in my mind for a sensible reply.

Hoping to capture images by sketching I have been honing my drawing skills in a weekend workshop with Jane Sinclair and Anna Marie Kingsley and thirteen other artists. Their teaching was completely inspiring, and by the end of the weekend, some of my images were recognisable. Jane and Anna encouraged us to see landforms and sky as light and shadow and the show and tell session  refected our individual artisitc responses to the same image. We stayed in the French Village in the Maungateretere valley on the outskirts of Carterton. Set in an idyllic native bush setting, the morning mist then warming sun gave us plenty of choices for our searching eyes.

So far our tour plans include a picnic in the gardens of Villa Borghese, a stroll on Saturday evening along via Conditti and the Spanish Steps, the ballet at Teatro d’el Opera, and of course wandering around Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori, a day in Capri,a pizza in the orginal pizza café in Napoli, a visit to an olive grove in Malcesine, the Sunday antiques market in Denzano, and of course, walking everywhere.