Napoli

Arriving by train from Sorrento, we make our way through the mercato of fish, vegetables, patissericherias, cheeses and meat. The scene is basic, rustic, raunchy, and earthy. The life force flows amongst the people as they go about their daily lives. The change of scene from the serene and spiritual Anacapri is profound. A game plan is needed to visit Napoli as there are so many options: the central sites, the waterfront,  the markets, shopping, major buildings or go underground and seeing the catacombs. You can take the bus tour in an open topped bus to get oriented. We decide to find Antiqua Pizzeria Da Michele for an early pizza lunch, then walk to the Theatre, palazzo and church in the largest piazza in Napoli. Napoli is not for the faint hearted. You are forced to encounter Napoli. There is an immediate impression on all of my senses as we leave the train station; cars, scooters, rickety cobble stones, water, road works, markets, bag sellers, shops, cars and buses everywhere.

Walking down Via Umberto into an unprepossessing cafe entrance, we join a hive of activity of Antiqua Pizzeria S.Michele. There are only two pizzas on the menu, marguerite with tomato, mozzarella and basil or Marinella with tomato, garlic and oregano. You can choose normal, or large. The drinks are water and coke. The tables are marble and every table is full. There is a queue out the door and people have numbers. The air is full of anticipation as people wait to be called. Those waiting know they are at a revered shrine. This place has been here for over 70 years. The owner and decendent from the originator of the pizza napoletan leans wearily against a tiled wall, looking on with pride and some amazement at the business of this place he has created. His face lights up as we say hello.

This pizza will set us up for the rest of the day. The crust is toasted, and light and has oil dripping from it. Delicious. Cost 4E each.

We walk down to the theatre, the church and the huge piazza around the Palace. There are few people around, so we have these places to ourselves. The outside surfaces wear the grime of years, but inside these buildings are glorious. Beatiful structures which have lasted the years. Several people had warned us about Napoli, to watch ourselves and our bags, that people might grab our bags or push us around. This was not the case at all. We found everyone we approached to ask for directions, kind and helpful.