Our apartment is gorgeous, compact and central. Arriving yesterday, I saw Shahla immediately as I came out of customs. I am delighted, relieved and amazed we have found each other in the sea of people. We took the packed train into Stazione Termini, (11 euros and 30 minutes) sharing a cabin with a group of animated young men who ran a plastics factory in Tunisia. They were from Napoli. The one sitting beside me was friendly and curious and wanted to practice his English. He asked where we were from, what season was it in New Zealand, and where were we going in Italy. I asked they were from, what work did they do, what were they doing in Rome and how long would they be there. Arriving in central Rome was easy.
People from all over the world arriving and leaving made for a vibrant scene. The Bancomat easily gave me euros from my new travel card! I headed over the road to the local tobacchi to buy some cheese and apples as the plane food had been distinctly unappetising. We took a bus to our apartment. Shahla pointed out; Piazza Venezia, via Nazionale, Largo Argentina, Palazzo di Giustizia. Crossing the Tiber River, we went through Piazza Cavour, to our Palazzo (mansion) just off via Giulio Cesare.
Our apartment is gorgeous, compact and central. Arriving yesterday, I saw Shahla immediately as I came out of customs. I am delighted, relieved and amazed we have found each other in the sea of people. We took the packed train into Stazione Termini, (11 euros and 30 minutes) sharing a cabin with a group of animated young men who ran a plastics factory in Tunisia. They were from Napoli. The one sitting beside me was friendly and curious and wanted to practice his English. He asked where we were from, what season was it in New Zealand, and where were we going in Italy. I asked they were from, what work did they do, what were they doing in Rome and how long would they be there. Arriving in central Rome was easy.
People from all over the world arriving and leaving made for a vibrant scene. The Bancomat easily gave me euros from my new travel card! I headed over the road to the local tobacchi to buy some cheese and apples as the plane food had been distinctly unappetising. We took a bus to our apartment. Shahla pointed out; Piazza Venezia, via Nazionale, Largo Argentina, Palazzo di Giustizia. Crossing the Tiber River, we went through Piazza Cavour, to our Palazzo (mansion) just off via Giulio Cesare.
As I have been to Rome several times and had already seen many of the main sites, Shahla asked me what I wanted to do on this tour. Preferring to have new experience of the city and escape the tourist crowds, we have decided to Campo di Fioriwalk and make plans as we go. By chance, Maria, a friend of Shahla’s picked us up and took us to another apartment she is letting to a Sardinian family for four days. This was in a charming area near the forum. We had a chance to look at the apartment. It was simple and elegant, with deli and cafes nearby as in all of Rome. Maria runs www.romehome.it so if you want an apartment in Rome, she has great apartments all over the city. Maria generously drove us to many special places unavailable to tourists. She drives the streets of Rome with great skills and panache. Having grown up close to the Spanish steps and lived in Rome most of her life, she knows every bit of the city by heart, and the history behind it. We are really lucky to have her share these gems with us.It is Easter Friday today and surprisingly the city is fully open. We have decided to begin our days with the classic Italian breakfast, standing in a bar having caffe latte and cornetto (selecting from the fabulous array of almond croissant, pain au chocolate, Danish and Italian pastries) around 2 euros for each. We then walk…….. all day.
Today, first to St Peters Square, then Campo de’ Fiori with its vibrant daily market, toPiazza Navona with the glorious statues and the Pantheon. Everywhere I looked there are vignettes which make this city so romantic: a roof garden here, majestic cupolas there, doorways creating intrigues and exquisite carved marble statues and sculptures in unexpected places. In amongst all of this are cafes and bars. There are many places for people sit and to take in this extraordinary city. Layered over these scenes is the history of Rome; the place where Julius Ceasar was murdererd, the tomb of Raffaello, Dante’s studio, the Borghese and Farneses family homes. Underpinning this is the reach of the Roman Empire and the beginnings of Christianity and the many places of prayer; the escape tunnels from the Vatican, the catacombs, and now the hundreds of churches, and the alter of peace, all welcoming. Lunch was strawberries with a slice of fine crust zucchini pizza sitting at the fountain in Campo de’ Fiori. Maria joined us for gelatti around 4pm. My choice was caramelised chestnut (marron glace) refreshing and delicious. Shahla’s favourite is amaretti. At right, Shahla and Maria.
Its Spring in Rome
The blossoms of the Judas street shower lace coverings of purple and lime green and line the streets. The city is surprisingly quiet given the many tourists here for easter. Most of them were at the Pantheon today, so we are able to roam freely.
Artists, Architects, Artisans and City Planners and caffe latte
We visited the city cemetery. Walking around the porticos, I see the foresight and value of the artists, artisans, architects and city planners. Their contributions are reflected throughout the city and particularly here. There are beautiful carved marble statues and monuments for the fine families of Rome. The cemetery is huge, and its ambiance is serene, respectful, beautiful and sad. Here, if a grotto has not tended for 50 years, the remains are removed and stored in another area, making the rare space available again. This place is a profound mix of art, sorrow, hidden stories and history. The expression of the value of life and the sorrow of loss is physical and large. One statue is of a woman in her quilted satin gown flowing around her as she is hugging and kissing her child who is reaching up to her. The carved marble reflects the soft folds of her gown and the painful parting taking place. We read her husband is the sculptor. This is in stark contrast of culture and beliefs of the cemeteries I saw in the Abu Dhabi desert – sharp jagged rocks 30cms high, inserted vertically into the ground, and no names.